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A Birthday Tour and the Deep Bust Adjustment

Remember last October, almost a full year ago, when I made the Marbella Dress from Itch to Stitch?  Well that was her first official pattern released and it’s exciting to think that the 1 year anniversary of Itch to Stitch* designs is upon us.  To celebrate, there’s a birthday tour with a giveaway, amazing – unheard of for Itch to Stitch –  discounts, and a great group of bloggers who all set out to put their own spin on one or more Itch to Stitch patterns.  *This post contains affiliate links


With ten patterns released, it was tough to pick just one for the tour, but I finally decided the Kathryn Top* was the one for me.  I love the look of the pleats at the neckline and the shaping at the waist is really flattering.  It’s an empire waist top, which is usually troublesome for my frame, since I have a large bust depth (which I’ll explain in a second).  Fortunately, I know the Itch to Stich patterns are well designed so I can trust that the measurements in the charts are accurate.  To make the Kathryn Top work for me (or any other woman with a large bust depth) I made a Deep Bust Adjustment (DBA) and I’ll tell you how you can make the same adjustment if necessary.

A DBA is needed when the normal empire waistline ends up falling around the lower third of the bust – even with a full bust adjustment (FBA) – and yet still hits at the correct spot at the side seam and across the back.  It’s a vertical bust issue more than a horizontal problem, so by adding more to an FBA to accommodate the length it would also make the width of the bodice too large.  Below I use the Kathryn Top Front Bodice Lining pattern piece to demonstrate the DBA, but keep in mind the drawing is not to scale.

To alter with a DBA, first make a muslin and determine how much extra length you need at the center bust.  For reference, I needed 2″.  Then grab your front bodice pieces (for the Kathryn you need both the front bodice lining and the front bodice piece with the pleating) and trace around your size according to the pattern’s size chart.  If you need to have an FBA, then do those modifications BEFORE you muslin for the DBA as sometimes the FBA adds enough length on its own.  I didn’t need an FBA for this pattern.

Next, extend the center front line down with the amount measured from the muslin.  Mine was 2″.

Since we don’t want to change the side seam and are happy with where the empire waist falls all the way around the back of the top, taper the new lower center front marking up to the old empire waistline before the side seam allowance.  If there are darts along the empire waist, make sure you close them, draw the new line, and then open them back up.  The Kathryn doesn’t have waist darts so it wasn’t necessary in this case.

Trace along the new empire waistline and your DBA is complete (for the Kathryn Top, I made the same adjustment to the other front bodice piece).  This isn’t a bodice fitting problem that affects everyone, but if you’re one of the few who is always cut off at the bust with an empire waist, it’s one you should consider.  I love how this Kathryn Top fits and prior to a DBA I would have had to rule out this style for my shape.  I would also have missed out on a great pattern!  The way the Kathryn is put together is so smart and like other Itch to Stitch* patterns, there are specific design elements added to make sure the quality of your finished top stands out.

Itch to Stitch Birthday Fun
(scroll to the bottom to enter to win!)
Follow these blogs to see their awesome creations from Itch to Stitch patterns:
Scruffy Badger Time | Call Ajaire | Wally and Grace | Sew Wrong | Bella Sunshine DesignsSeaside Notions | Made by Jaime | Sweet Little Chickadee | Inspinration | Friends Stitched TogetherStoney Sews | Just Keep Sewing | My Little Sewing Dreams | Allie J. | Creative CounselorLove, Lucie | Girls in the Garden | FABulous Home Sewn | Goddess of Sewing | Rebel & Malice The Telltale Tasha | House of Estrela | Made by Sara | Sew Shelly Sew | Red Knits
Be sure to scroll to the bottom for your chance to win great prizes by these sponsors:
Itch to Stitch First Anniversary Sponsors
The Fabric Store – $100 Gift certificate
Elliott Berman Textiles – Fabric bundle from France & Italy
Craftsy* – three online classes of your choice
Girl Charlee Fabrics – $25 Gift certificate
Indie Sew – $25 Gift certificate
UpCraft Club* – $25 Gift certificate
Quarto Publishing Group USA – the SHIRTMAKING WORKBOOK by David Page Coffin
The featured designer of the day will give away 2 patterns to a lucky winner:
Baste + Gather
Straight Stitch Designs*
Megan Nielsen Patterns
Jamie Christina
Hey June Handmade
Wardrobe by Me
Filles รก Maman
Follow Itch to Stitch’s blog closely to win these patterns!

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Comments

  1. DebM

    June 10, 2022 at 11:53 am

    Ajaire, you earned your angel wings today. I love the pattern, but was put off by the bodice (lack of room for my chest). The explanation is really straightforward and easy. By the way, seeing you wear your top with modifications sold me on the pattern. I don’t think many full busted sewists have tried making this, as there are very few photos, except for yours and Rachel’s (Rachel Creations). Going to dive in and hope to end up with a beautiful top.

    Reply

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(I have too many podcasts I enjoy to actually find the time for listening to great novels ๐Ÿ˜†)
If youโ€™re going to get a chili relleno on cape c If youโ€™re going to get a chili relleno on cape cod it might as well be in a quahog ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•

Great experience @anejomexican tonight.
It looks cold, but was actually quite warm on my w It looks cold, but was actually quite warm on my walk this morning ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•

#parellosoncape
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#parellosgotoma
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I've always loved making. At an early age I started cross stitching and sewing and I taught myself to knit and crochet during college. When our seven year old daughter Bean was born I was filled with all sorts of inspiration, so now I find ways to manage my crafty time and treasure those moments. Though sewing is what I'm most passionate about these days, there's something about the portability of yarn crafts and embroidery that keeps drawing me back in. Read Moreโ€ฆ

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