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Remix the Stitch – the Capitol Hill Dress

Straight Stitch Designs is a year old which is a call for a big celebration!  Kimberly launched her first pattern last September and has been on a major roll since.  She’s put together a fantastic anniversary tour where bloggers were asked to add a twist to one of her already amazing patterns.  I’m an affiliate of Straight Stitch Designs which means if you click over from the links on this page and then purchase, Call Ajaire will earn a percentage at no cost to you.  All opinions are mine.

I chose to use the Capitol Hill dress since it’s one I had in my stash and was planning for fall anyway.  I took this opportunity to muslin the bodice since I knew I’d have to make a few adjustments for my measurements.  One of the great things about Straight Stitch Designs is that the patterns have size chart measurements as well as finished measurements so you know exactly what sizes things should turn out.  That makes altering the pattern pieces super easy.

via Instagram: first muslin

My measurements put me at a 10 on top, 16 at the chest, and 16 at the hip.  Instead of doing a full bust adjustment (FBA)  to get from the size 10 to 16 I decided to do the cheater FBA since that works well for me in knits.  The cheater way is basically to trace the 10 along the neckline, shoulder, and top of the armscye, but extend the armscy to the 16 mark at the underarm/side seam.  I do this with the front and back bodice and to the sleeve as well.  Sometimes the back piece isn’t necessary to change, but to keep things even I usually do.  

via iPhone: second muslin

So that gives me the width I need at the bust, but I also have a large bust depth which is a completely different issue and is addressed in a different way.  This only needs to be used on dresses or tops which have an empire or another type of underbust horizontal seam.  I needed to add 2 inches to the depth of the bodice so I did a 2″ deep bust adjustment (DBA) at the center front out to the second pleat, tapering to the original size 16 side seam.  The DBA increases the amount of fabric in the right places for the bust, but allows for the same side seam depth so the back bodice doesn’t need to be changed at all.

I decided that to “remix” this great pattern, I’d make it a cropped sweater to wear with a high waisted skirt or over a simple dress.  I love that vintage look so I’ve had my eye on a couple of other cropped sweaters lately and thought the Capitol Hill upper bodice would work perfectly.

I am super happy with how it turned out.  For the final version I used this lovely quilted jersey from Imagine Gnats (*affiliate link).  The black isn’t in stock right now, but there’s a pretty pink and a taupe available!  The quilted jersey is soft and even though it’s a bit thick it doesn’t feel bulky.  It’s like a sweatshirt weight I’d say.  

This cropped Capitol Hill is exactly what I was picturing.  I didn’t have to make any major changes to the pattern either.  I used the bodice top and sleeve pieces as is (except for my muslin alterations) and then added depth to the waistband so it would be a bit longer than the original.  I sewed the waistband pieces together at the sides, folded them in half so that the fold would be the bottom edge of the sweater, and then stitched the raw waistband edge onto the finished bodice.  Super easy and it adds an extra view to the pattern.  If the pleats above look bizarre, keep in mind it was almost 100 degrees when I was taking these pictures so this perfect-for-autumn sweater was literally soaked and started to sag haha.

The top pairs perfectly with this Hollyburn skirt I made a couple of weeks ago.  The green fabric bodcie I used for muslining is going to become a full capitol hill once I remove the muslin waistband and add a skirt.  I just need to decide which fabric to use for the skirt portion and it’ll be an easy finish.  It’s nice to have this one project produce two great pieces for my autumn wardrobe.

300x300
Straight Stitch Designs is having a 50% off sale on all her patterns through the tour, which is an amazing deal.  Check out the rest of the tour dates and enter the Rafflecopter giveaway below!

Tuesday, September 8th: Meg Cookin’ and Craftin’ | Jennifer Ginger Peach Studio
Wednesday, September 9th: Ajaire Call Ajaire | Heidi Handmade Frenzy | Stacey Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy Crafts
Thursday, September 10th: Melissa Rebel & Malice | Annika Nรคh-Connection | Abby Sew Much Ado
Friday, September 11th: Katie It’s Hard to Hear Up Here | Jane Buzzmills | Lisa Mabey She Made It
Saturday, September 12th: Elena Randomly Happy | Allie Indiesew | Jess If Only They Would Nap
Monday, September 14th: Jaime Made By Jaime | Lauren BASTE + GATHER | Sara Made by Sara
Tuesday, September 15th: Audrey Skirt Fixationy | Teri Fa Sew La | Hayley Welcome to the Mouse House
Wednesday, September 16th: Emi Just Add Fabric | Rachael Imagine Gnats | Teresa Dandelion Drift
Thursday, September 17th: Kaysie | KZJO’STUDIO Rita Conversas de Hermanas | Stephanie Swoodson Says
Friday, September 18th: Andreia In a Manner of Sewing | Nienke Pienkel | Abbey Sew Charleston

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callajaire

First/Last Day of Preschool 3s ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’• First/Last Day of Preschool 3s ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
First day/Last day ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ She had a dress down d First day/Last day ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ She had a dress down day, so no uniform this morning ๐Ÿ˜†
Todayโ€™s the day! The Morgana Zip-Up/Cover-Up is Todayโ€™s the day!  The Morgana Zip-Up/Cover-Up is live as a part of the Project Under the Sea collaboration released this morning over @projectrunandplay ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•

This zip-up has views for a cropped and oversized hoodie as well as four other cover-up style looks.  Designed for minimal stretch fabrics, it works great with French terry, sweatshirting, and of course the beloved new Cloud Cuddleยฉ from @shannonfabrics (shown in the cover looks.)
You can find the pattern (sized newborn to 16 years) on sale exclusively through Project Run & Play for a month. Check out all the views in the listing. ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•

https://projectrunandplay.com/product/morgana/
#dbcamorgana #designsbycallajaire 
#projectunderthesea #prpunderthesea #shannonfabrics #shannonfabricscuddle #shannonfabricscloudcuddle #coverups #zipuppatterns #pdfpattern #pdfpatternsale
This big sister turns 12 today! ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’• This big sister turns 12 today! ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
The new Cloud Cuddleยฉ from @shannonfabrics is inc The new Cloud Cuddleยฉ from @shannonfabrics is incredibly soft on both sides, which made it perfect for a new layering piece. ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
It has just enough stretch for the Chromium Cropped Sweatshirt, but I needed to cut the neckband on the bias to make sure it would stretch over her head. ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป
She wouldnโ€™t stop petting her arms and talking about just how soft it is. ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

#designsbycallajaire #dbcachromium #shannonfabrics #shannoncuddle #cloudcuddle #shannonfabricscloudcuddle
It was a fun class day @sewspecialinc as we were a It was a fun class day @sewspecialinc as we were able to finish up some Larry the Lion stuffies leftover from a class this past winter. Iโ€™m so glad these ladies were able to come out to join me and complete their projects ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

Fabrics are cuddle by @shannonfabrics and the pattern is @funkyfriendsfactory
Well, itโ€™s been awhile, but Designs by Call Ajai Well, itโ€™s been awhile, but Designs by Call Ajaire has a new pattern thatโ€™s ready for testing!! 
Meet the Morgana Zip-Up/Cover-Up in sizes nb-16 years.  This is the perfect beach/pool cover up and was designed for minimal stretch knits, so french terry, cuddle minky, sweatshirting are all great options here.  Other knits could be used, but YMMV.

Testing will begin Wednesday the 26th and end May 6th.  This is a relatively short turn-around, but the block has been used in the past and Iโ€™m not anticipating much in the way of fit changes.  If youโ€™d like to test, just fill out this google form (in profile). Thanks!!
https://forms.gle/N8fkAGRXho6YsZbH9
fabrics here are cloud cuddle from @shannonfabrics 

#designsbycallajaire #dbcamorgana
Well, it's been awhile, but Designs by Call Ajaire Well, it's been awhile, but Designs by Call Ajaire has a new pattern that's ready for testing!! 
Meet the Morgana Zip-Up/Cover-Up in sizes nb-16 years.  This is the perfect beach/pool cover up and was designed for minimal stretch knits, so french terry, cuddle minky, sweatshirting are all great options here.  Other knits could be used, but YMMV.

Testing will begin Wednesday the 26th and end May 6th.  This is a relatively short turn-around, but the block has been used in the past and I'm not anticipating much in the way of fit changes.  If you'd like to test, just fill out this google form (in profile). Thanks!!
https://forms.gle/N8fkAGRXho6YsZbH9
I love it when the insides are pretty ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•๐ŸŒต I love it when the insides are pretty ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•๐ŸŒต๐ŸŒต
#designsbycallajaire #dbcacapechinos
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I've always loved making. At an early age I started cross stitching and sewing and I taught myself to knit and crochet during college. When our seven year old daughter Bean was born I was filled with all sorts of inspiration, so now I find ways to manage my crafty time and treasure those moments. Though sewing is what I'm most passionate about these days, there's something about the portability of yarn crafts and embroidery that keeps drawing me back in. Read Moreโ€ฆ

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