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The Mackinaw Coat Sew-a-long – Tips and Tools

It’s day 2 of the Mackinaw Coat Sew-a-long and today we’re going over the best tools for the job.  I’ve found that having the right tools makes a real difference in the final product.  There are affiliate links in this post, but all opinions are mine.


I’ve been sewing since I was a tween (which was long before that was even a term, hehe) and through the years I’ve made do with what I had at my disposal.  It’s only been in the past few years that I have started to use some of the tools recommended by professionals and I’m kind of shocked with the difference it’s made in my sewing.  The Mackinaw Coat with its clean finishes is the perfect place to showcase some of my favorite sewing tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KVMP4A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003KVMP4A&linkCode=as2&tag=calaja-20&linkId=ZRNO4DQ6I3LJ4MQN


First up is the Tailor’s Clapper (*affiliate link).  I cannot recommend a clapper enough.  This little piece of wood works some magic.  It is used to press crisp seams and folds in fabrics and if you’re working with delicate fabrics it is a must.  First you press the fabric using your iron and before you accidentally scorch your fabric, you remove the iron and replace it with the tailor’s clapper.  The untreated wood absorbs some of the steam and heat coming up off of the fabric and holds it without the risk of overheating.  With fabrics such as the wool coating recommended for the Mackinaw Coat there is a dramatic difference in the look of the pressed edges when using a clapper.  It makes short work of pleats and folds and though I originally purchased mine to use in jeans-making, I find I use it in almost all my projects now.  This tool I recommend above all others.  If nothing else, add it to your amazon wishlist because this is one tool you won’t want to forget about.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001K54XUW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001K54XUW&linkCode=as2&tag=calaja-20&linkId=ON62IDM3B726YNPO
Turn It All

Next is the Turn It All tool (*affiliate link).  I purchased this last year after about two years of using a plastic straw and a chopstick for turning skinny tubes.  Now the straw method worked just fine, but was flimsy and when I finally looked up the price of purchasing a tool specifically designed for the job I was surprised at how cheap it was.  I had been fiddling with and spending time replacing bent straws only to save a few dollars.  The Turn it All is a great turning tool and makes it a lot less painful to turn tubes like the belt, sash, hanging loop, and belt loops in the Mackinaw Coat.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RJW9IC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B008RJW9IC&linkCode=as2&tag=calaja-20&linkId=NAQTXOARRLLLSWYO
Tailors Ham


A Tailor’s Ham (*affiliate link) is something I’ve had on my list for awhile.  I remember ages ago when I pinned this great tutorial from No Big Dill and I had serious intentions of making my own.  Three years later I finally realized I’d never find the time to make one and it made more sense to just purchase one.  The ham shape helps get my necklines to lay flat and not droop.  I find myself using it not just during the sewing process, but when I iron our clothes as well.  The biggest difference I’ve noticed is how nicely my bust darts drape when I press them with the tailor’s ham and there’s a lot less pointy dart syndrome happening around here.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQKIDY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000YQKIDY&linkCode=as2&tag=calaja-20&linkId=QOLFVVJVI7LI4DEB
Fray Check


For Bean’s Katy Perry NYE Mackinaw Fray Check (*affiliate link) was my best friend.  That outer fabric wanted to unravel at every single seam and even serging the edges to help secure the threads didn’t seem to work.  I used a bit of fray check at all of the corner points and after clipping and it took away the stress.  I was worried that the bound buttonholes with the tiny clips and snips would have fallen apart in my hands, but with a little fray check to keep those threads in place it was a breeze.  I made sure to only use it within the seam allowances so the final coat wouldn’t have any “crispy” areas around the edges.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QNQSUG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001QNQSUG&linkCode=as2&tag=calaja-20&linkId=QAFH5KE73T4F6Y2X
Sliding Seam Gauge


And finally, a tool I got for Christmas this year from my mother.  To be fair, I’d had a seam gauge on my wishlist, but instead of the basic one I listed she bumped it up and got this multi-functional one. It’d be hard to go wrong with a Nancy Zieman recommended tool, but I was still surprised at how much I use the other features of this Sliding Seam Gauge (*affiliate link).  I find myself using the T-gauge most often for marking and I love that it functions as a compass easily as well.  I literally found myself using a string with a golf pencil attached last year when I needed a circle and it was ridiculous and flimsy.  As someone who designs and sews with limited time, simple tools like an ACTUAL compass on hand instead of taking 10 minutes to set up something jury-rigged make a big impact.

And that’s sort of the point of this whole post.  Though it may read as one big advertisement, I really want this post to be a sharing of some of my favorite tools.  Whether you purchase through my affiliate links or go out somewhere local to buy the brand of tools you prefer, my goal is to nudge you toward using some of these to up your sewing game.  I’m not an advocate of buying every sewing tool on the market and am not one to jump at the next great thing, but this is my list of tried and true tools where for around $60 you can make a big difference in your sewing.  And if $60 is too rich for your blood, then remember that the tailor’s clapper is half of that cost and in a pinch one of my testers used a piece of wood from her garage instead.  Other than trying to avoid splinters, it worked just fine and she was thrilled with the results, hehe.  So there’s still nothing wrong with a bit of ingenuity and I certainly applaud it, but I know I’ve reached the point where spending a little money is worth saving a little time in my process and if you’re there too I suggest taking the plunge.

See below for the full schedule of the Mackinaw Coat sew-a-long.  You can share your progress using the hashtag #dbcaMackSAL on Instagram and as always you can use the #designsbycallajaire and #themackinawcoat hashtags to see what everyone else is making.  Share any finished coats in the Designs by Call Ajaire facebook group as I know we’d all love the inspiration!

February 24th – Fabric Selections
February 25th – Tips and Tools
February 27th – Tester pics and Other Inspiration
March 2nd – Sew the Lining
March 3rd – Sew the (optional) Bound Buttonholes
March 4th – Sew the Outer Coat
March 5th – Sew the Coat Together and Bag the Lining
March 6th – Final Touches and Sharing
And of course let’s not forget a fun giveaway!  Enter the Rafflecopter below for the chance to win the following:
The Mackinaw Coat PDF Pattern
$25 gift certificate to the Imagine Gnats shop (*affiliate link) 
$50 Amazon.com gift certificate to purchase relevant sewing tools (*affiliate link) 

The giveaway is only open until midnight EST on the 26th, so don’t delay!  This will give the winner time to gather their supplies before the end of the sew-a-long.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

February 25, 2016 5:55 pm Ajaire Leave a Comment Filed Under: Uncategorized

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callajaire

Mother. Wife. Sewist. Not necessarily in that order.

Ajaire Parello
Once again this baby surprised us. Yesterday morni Once again this baby surprised us. Yesterday morning she just started counting to ten on her own ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜† She was star struck watching herself on the camera so she didnโ€™t go past five here, but in person she rolls right past ten and tries for 11 and 12 ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
You guys, this girl is having a real hair moment. You guys, this girl is having a real hair moment. After waiting literal years for her hair to grow in, itโ€™s now turned into an 80โ€™s rocker look with how spikey it all is on top and the extra length in back๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜† 
But we LOVE this Journal Jumpsuit from @jennuinedesign and she LOVES wearing it to jump on the couch. ๐Ÿ˜ฌ๐Ÿ˜ฌ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜Sheโ€™s a real talker these days so I had to use the Story Teller cut file, also from the Lounge Library collection.  Check out @projectrunandplay for the details on the sale on this pattern this week only!
Fabric is a lush French terry from @knitfabricdotcom and the contrast is a solid from @wolfandrabbitfabrics 

#projectloungelibrary #projectrunandplay #journaljumpsuit #jennuinedesign
Have you seen the mini season of @projectrunandpla Have you seen the mini season of @projectrunandplay details yet?  Iโ€™m super excited about everyone sharing more of the Project Lounge Library collection and the freebies weโ€™re offering!  First up is this perfectly sized book tote from @jennuinedesign. My girl LOVED the one I made from the second she saw it Christmas morning!  The cut file design is also from the collection as well as her nightgown ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
Thereโ€™s a whole Percy Jackson collection inside there along with three other (heavy) books, so itโ€™s a nice sturdy tote that holds plenty!

https://projectrunandplay.com/product/book-bag/
#dbcanininoni #designsbycallajaire #jennuinedesign #projectrunandplay #freepattern #pdfpattern #projectloungelibrary
One of my favorite things is giving and receiving One of my favorite things is giving and receiving Christmas cards. ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
Well itโ€™s not as many books as Iโ€™ve read in pa Well itโ€™s not as many books as Iโ€™ve read in past years, nor did I reach my (what I thought was an easy) minimum goal of 50, but then again all that was set back in January before I knew Iโ€™d have very little time to myself for 3/4 of the year ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿคช 
I read lots of different genres, including a few oldie juvenile favorites to preview for or read alongside my daughter. ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
Some were book club reads and some were suggestions from Instagram friends, but I really enjoyed them all. Of course the new Louise Penny was my favorite ๐Ÿ˜

#goodreadschallenge2020 #goodreads #readingchallenge2020
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
Just a reminder that 2020 wasnโ€™t all bad ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿผโ€โ™€๏ธ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿผโ€โ™€๏ธ๐Ÿฅฐ๐Ÿฅฐ #topnine2020 #bestnine2020
We had a really nice Christmas with lots of cuddly We had a really nice Christmas with lots of cuddly fabrics and family. And this baby figured out how to ride her new scooter right away!  Looking forward to what 2021 has to bring! ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
Happy Christmas Eve everyone! ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•๐ŸŽ„๐ŸŽ„๐Ÿฅ Happy Christmas Eve everyone! ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•๐ŸŽ„๐ŸŽ„๐Ÿฅ๐Ÿฅ
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I've always loved making. At an early age I started cross stitching and sewing and I taught myself to knit and crochet during college. When our seven year old daughter Bean was born I was filled with all sorts of inspiration, so now I find ways to manage my crafty time and treasure those moments. Though sewing is what I'm most passionate about these days, there's something about the portability of yarn crafts and embroidery that keeps drawing me back in.

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