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Call Ajaire

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Popover Rugby Shirt

Season 8 of Project Run & Play started this week and the first theme is remix which is always my favorite.  The pattern to remix is the Popover Sundress from Oliver & S.  It’s a free pattern, but just as well written as any of their patterns for purchase.  I sewed my first Oliver & S pattern back in July and I can’t believe I waited as long as I did.

via Oliver & S

The Popover Sundress has a nice square shape at the neckline with bias tape ties as straps.  Since it’ll be cold here any minute now I wanted to make a fall shirt that Bean could wear instead of a dress.  I found an old striped shirt that I don’t really wear anymore and once paired with a navy solid from my stash it worked perfectly.  The bodice lines of the original dress really shine through.

The idea was for something a little looser and more casual at the sides and sleeves than I normally make for her.  I pictured a rugby shirt with a more girly neckline.  Wanting to keep the cute bias ties, I decided to use the “ties” to shape the shoulder.  I was worried that having two bias ties on a long sleeved shirt might be a little busy at Bean’s neckline, so I did one shoulder without the actual ties and just used a continuous bias strip.

Instead of modifying the bodice to have a shoulder strap, I used the curve of the bias tape to draft a sleeve.  Let me tell you, it’s not a simple thing to draft a sleeve that fits properly.  I won’t go into all the math details, but I used the shape of the bodice and yoke when sewn together sketched with where the bias ties should land on the shoulder to draft the correct shape.  I didn’t want the shoulder to fall from the weight of the bias tape, but wanted the sleeve cap to be full and not too snug either.  It was a real hold-your-breath moment when I put the finished shirt on Bean, but I was so pleased to see it fit exactly as I wanted.

These are the pieces I used to remix the pattern:
front and back piece shortened to tunic length
bias tie strips – one sized as the pattern suggests and one about an inch shorter than half the length
drafted sleeve (and sleeve bands)
front yoke of original pattern
back yoke drafted to increase the height
bias strip for keyhole opening

Once all the pieces are cut out sew the front and back pieces to their corresponding yokes according to the pattern instructions.

Next start with the sleeve that will have the continuous bias strip around the shoulder.  Pin the bias strip onto the sleeve right sides together.  Then pin the front bodice right side down to the right side edge of the shoulder, sandwiching the bias tape.

Moving aside the loose edge of the front bodice, pin the back bodice right side down to the left edge of the shoulder.  Once everything is properly pinned, sew the entire upper arm seam through all the layers, from the back bodice edge up around the shoulder and through the front bodice edge.

After that seam is sewn the underside will look like the left hand picture above and the bias tape will be loose on the top side of the shirt.  Simply fold the bias tape down (along the original iron creases) and pin the strip to the front and back bodices and to itself along the shoulder.

Sew along the top of both sides of the bias strip to tack it down completely.  Then sew the side seam from the wrist edge of the sleeve all the way to the hemline of the shirt.  At the same time sew the other side seam of the front and back bodice since the second sleeve is attached differently.

Now to the other sleeve which will have the ties and keyhole opening.  First cut a little keyhole shape in the top of the sleeve and then attach the small bias strip to the opening, trimming any excess.

Sew the seam of the sleeve and then attach the longest strip of bias tape right sides together to the edge stopping at the keyhole edges.

With the sleeve (and binding pinned on) right side out and the shirt inside out place the sleeve inside the shirt and pin.  Start pinning at the underarm seam to ensure the front and back bodice pieces will be positioned properly along the arm since the top of the sleeve will not be attached to anything except the bias tape.  Sew through all layers, starting and ending at the keyhole opening.

Once the seam is complete the bias tape will be loose on the right side of the shirt.  Fold the bias strip along the original iron creases and then sew both sides of the strip to itself and the shirt to tack it down.  Make sure to contain the edges of the keyhole so it will look nice when the shirt is finished.  I usually hand sew the very ends of my bias strips because I like a nice clean look at the end.  That is why I leave the thread tails as you can see on the right hand side above.  It’s a personal preference and could certainly be sewn along that edge when sewing the rest of the strip.

As I mentioned before, the toughest part of the flip was drafting the correct shoulder.  The fabric is so lightweight that it doesn’t look as nice on the hanger since it is looking for a shoulder to drape, but I’m super proud of how perfectly it rests on the shoulder line (without slipping off) when worn.  I used a 3T length and in between 2 and 3T width for the shirt so there is room to grow, but on Bean it’s exactly as I wanted it to fit.

I added the sleeve bands from the original shirt to give even a little extra room to grow, but I used the original shirt hem to make my life easier.  Oh, you’d like to see what the original shirt looked like?

Well I forgot to take a picture before slicing and dicing, but here is my husband and I a few days before our wedding.  We look ridiculous, but they were putting up the tent and I’m pretty sure we were demonstrating that the tent stakes were as tall as me.  I also think that’s the last time I even wore the shirt, hehe.  (also, behind those guys without their shirts on you can spy my sister‘s house)  Anyway, back to Bean.

This is the best picture I was able to take of the front of the shirt.  She has a flair for the dramatic, but I swear she wasn’t as upset as she looks.

In fact, this picture was taken within seconds.  You just can’t see the straps in it, so I had to throw the other one in.


It’s been a fun start to this season of Project Run & Play – you can see what the designers came up with and vote for one of their looks here – and I even started sewing before Wednesday!  Next week’s theme is a tricky one, but for now you should head over to see what everyone else in the sew-along made.

As usual, linking up to:

The Chicken Chick Shaffer Sisters encourage. inspire. uplift. create. Photobucket Get Your Crap Together Happy Hour Projects Photobucket

September 12, 2013 7:11 pm Ajaire Leave a Comment Filed Under: Uncategorized

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. 1

    Zafarani says

    September 12, 2013 at 7:49 pm

    Love this! Love that the dress is still there but the sleeves are added! So nice for the weather change! And yes, I have a few girls that have a flair for dramatic too! 😉

    Reply
  2. 2

    Olga Becker @ Kid Approved says

    September 12, 2013 at 8:57 pm

    The dress is so cute, Ajare! Great remix!

    Reply
  3. 3

    Shaffer Sisters says

    September 13, 2013 at 2:32 am

    This is awesome. I love that the straps are useable and it is long sleeve.

    Reply
  4. 4

    Tracy K. says

    September 13, 2013 at 2:33 am

    This is so inventive! I don't know how you even came up with such a cool idea but it really looks great. I love the pic of her being dramatic 🙂

    Reply
  5. 5

    Sherri | Thread Riding Hood says

    September 13, 2013 at 2:33 am

    Love that you used an old shirt! 🙂 Great idea keeping the original bones of the dress.

    Reply
  6. 6

    Teri Olson says

    September 13, 2013 at 3:21 am

    This idea (and the execution) is great! I may have to try making something similar before winter comes 🙂

    Reply
  7. 7

    Frances Suzanne says

    September 13, 2013 at 10:02 pm

    Glad to know we aren't the only one who deals with someone with a flair for the dramatics!! Cute remix….very practical!

    Reply
  8. 8

    amy mayen says

    September 14, 2013 at 1:10 am

    Yup…we've got dramatic girls here too! I'm loving that you got new life out of that shirt. I love your interesting color and fabric combinations in your sewing- it's often something I'd never think to pair together. Makes me want to make bolder choices, because your stuff always looks great!

    Reply
  9. 9

    Simple Simon says

    September 14, 2013 at 1:31 am

    How you kept the detail of the bias tape and added the sleeves is totally amazing!!!! You are awesome!

    Reply
  10. 10

    marnae says

    September 14, 2013 at 2:01 pm

    Great idea, ajaire! I love that the bias tape is visable and the contrast it adds. What a cutie she is! And(having three girls close together in age) drama is a perpetual thing at our house:)

    Reply
  11. 11

    Sparkling says

    September 14, 2013 at 9:44 pm

    Totally cracking up because I can't even remember you in that shirt before the wedding but I can remember him in those orange shorts! And I definitely don't remember you being there when they put the tent up. I feel like that happened before you even got here! I do remember the boys with no shirts though…

    Reply
  12. 12

    OnceUpona Sew says

    September 16, 2013 at 1:15 pm

    Always a fan of your remixes! This is great too!

    Reply
  13. 13

    Annie says

    September 16, 2013 at 3:50 pm

    Wow beautiful remix! I love how you can see the original dress design!

    Reply
  14. 14

    DollyCreates says

    September 18, 2013 at 1:10 pm

    Very cute! You did such a beautiful job on this! Thanks for sharing @ Dolly Creates!!

    Reply

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callajaire

Mother. Wife. Sewist. Not necessarily in that order.

Ajaire Parello
You guys, this girl is having a real hair moment. You guys, this girl is having a real hair moment. After waiting literal years for her hair to grow in, it’s now turned into an 80’s rocker look with how spikey it all is on top and the extra length in back😆😆 
But we LOVE this Journal Jumpsuit from @jennuinedesign and she LOVES wearing it to jump on the couch. 😬😬😍😍She’s a real talker these days so I had to use the Story Teller cut file, also from the Lounge Library collection.  Check out @projectrunandplay for the details on the sale on this pattern this week only!
Fabric is a lush French terry from @knitfabricdotcom and the contrast is a solid from @wolfandrabbitfabrics 

#projectloungelibrary #projectrunandplay #journaljumpsuit #jennuinedesign
Have you seen the mini season of @projectrunandpla Have you seen the mini season of @projectrunandplay details yet?  I’m super excited about everyone sharing more of the Project Lounge Library collection and the freebies we’re offering!  First up is this perfectly sized book tote from @jennuinedesign. My girl LOVED the one I made from the second she saw it Christmas morning!  The cut file design is also from the collection as well as her nightgown 😍😍
There’s a whole Percy Jackson collection inside there along with three other (heavy) books, so it’s a nice sturdy tote that holds plenty!

https://projectrunandplay.com/product/book-bag/
#dbcanininoni #designsbycallajaire #jennuinedesign #projectrunandplay #freepattern #pdfpattern #projectloungelibrary
One of my favorite things is giving and receiving One of my favorite things is giving and receiving Christmas cards. 💕💕
Well it’s not as many books as I’ve read in pa Well it’s not as many books as I’ve read in past years, nor did I reach my (what I thought was an easy) minimum goal of 50, but then again all that was set back in January before I knew I’d have very little time to myself for 3/4 of the year 😆🤪 
I read lots of different genres, including a few oldie juvenile favorites to preview for or read alongside my daughter. 💕💕
Some were book club reads and some were suggestions from Instagram friends, but I really enjoyed them all. Of course the new Louise Penny was my favorite 😍

#goodreadschallenge2020 #goodreads #readingchallenge2020
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! 😍😍 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! 😍😍
Just a reminder that 2020 wasn’t all bad 🤷🏼‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️🥰🥰 #topnine2020 #bestnine2020
We had a really nice Christmas with lots of cuddly We had a really nice Christmas with lots of cuddly fabrics and family. And this baby figured out how to ride her new scooter right away!  Looking forward to what 2021 has to bring! 💕💕💕
Happy Christmas Eve everyone! 💕💕🎄🎄🥁 Happy Christmas Eve everyone! 💕💕🎄🎄🥁🥁
I made a last minute Christmas present hooded towe I made a last minute Christmas present hooded towel for the baby using this pretty floral C3, sparkle Cuddle© for the binding, and the super luxe feeling @shannonfabrics waffle terry. It’s a quick sew and the baby needed a hooded towel so now she’s all set. 💕💕 

Also our baby is two years old now 😭😭so I made the squares 1yd x 1yd instead of 28” x 28” in the pattern. Otherwise it’s the free pattern from the Shannon Fabrics website 😍😍

#shannonfabrics #shannoncuddle #shannonfabricscuddle #shannonfabricsterry #waffleterry
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I've always loved making. At an early age I started cross stitching and sewing and I taught myself to knit and crochet during college. When our seven year old daughter Bean was born I was filled with all sorts of inspiration, so now I find ways to manage my crafty time and treasure those moments. Though sewing is what I'm most passionate about these days, there's something about the portability of yarn crafts and embroidery that keeps drawing me back in.

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