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Bean’s Bishop {How To}

When I was looking for inspiration for the special occasion theme week at Project Run and Play, I stumbled upon (or rather was pin-pricked by) this cute dior bishop dress.  I hadn’t really thought of what type of dress this style was, but dior is calling it a cap sleeve.  I just thought it looked like a cute style for my little girl. 

I looked around some more and found that the style is indeed called a bishop dress.  I finally found one page which had a simple layout of the construction of a bishop dress.  But the specifics they gave left much to be desired and the pictures aren’t quite zoomed in enough to figure out what was going on.  So I made up the parts I didn’t know, hehe. 

The basics of the design (as far as I could tell) are taking five (Is anyone else obsessed with english “rules” like any number ten and under is supposed to be spelled instead of using the actual number?  Just me? hmmm) rectangles, sewing them together, and then gathering or smocking the top (or both) to get the poofed out shape.  Smocking seems to be the traditional method. 

I didn’t have a pattern and Bean was sleeping so I just made up some measurements when I cut out the rectangles.  I figured there would be lots of room for error so I took a guess.  I think I ended up cutting the front piece about 15 inches by 30-something inches which was ridiculous.  The width worked out perfectly, but the length was chopped off later.  Especially when it became my signature look.  I wanted a cute little short dress.  The sleeve rectangles were about 5 (I think the number writing rule does not apply when giving measurements or writing out math like 2+2…. but maybe I just made that up since the teacher who taught me the number rule didn’t mention what to do when writing a blog tutorial…. this was also back in 1989) inches by 12 inches which worked out perfectly for both width and length.  The back pieces were cut just shy of the front piece size in width which was CRAZY.  The were way too wide in the end.  I was worried about the dress not fitting properly when Bean is seated (since she’s not up and walking around yet there’s lots and lots of sitting) but I could have easily made the back widths 9 or 10 inches each and the fit would have been fine.  As it was, I just gathered the back neckline more than I would have otherwise.  So there really IS a lot of room for error with this type of dress.  And by error, I’m also referring to these pictures where the fabric wasn’t even ironed before cutting or sewing it, hehe.

Using french seams was the best way to go with this fabric since it was so light and frayed really easily.  I didn’t finish any of the horizontal edges before sewing, but if I made this again, I would have hemmed the sleeve rectangles or added some sort of edgeing at this point to make it easier later.  But not doing it now didn’t cause too much trouble.

Once the five rectangles are sewn together it was time to smock the top edge.  I chose a lattice edge design since I liked the dramatic look to it.  It was (of course) more complicated than the normal honeycomb smocking.  I’ll write a specific smocking post about how it came together next week.  For now, here is a picture of the right side (left) and the wrong side (right) of the fabric after smocking.

Now we move on to sewing the side seams.  I again french-seamed since I was worried about it being worn (and seams shredded) by a baby (look at those tiny hands just itching to shred and shred).  Ignore the sleeve rectangles and sew the front piece to each of the back pieces, leaving the back open for now.  This is why it would have been nice to finish the sleeve edges previously, but at this point I still thought I might leave them to fray.  I kind of liked the way they were looking.

The smocking didn’t gather the neckline as much as I had hoped, mostly because I didn’t tighten the stitches as I got closer to the top edge like I probably should have.  Honeycomb smocking would be easier to achieve that with, but I also wanted the lattice to look somewhat uniform so I chose not to.  Instead, I gathered the top edge using this method, which I saw pinned by googiemama and I seriously will never gather any other way again.  Why aren’t we all doing it this way???

I gathered more in the sleeve sections since I wanted them to poof up a bit and really, I wanted the front neckline lattice work to be preserved.  I also had to gather the back more than I would have liked since I cut the pieces too wide and didn’t have the heart to cut into the lattice smocking I painstakingly(!) sewed.

To cover the gathered neckline, I used more of the fabric using this neckline method that I just love.  Technically it’s for knit fabrics, but I find it works just fine for this cottony fabric as long as you cut the strip a little shorter than the actual gathered neckline.

To finish the back I knew I wanted to have two buttons at the top so I made a button placket all the way down.  I just sewed up from the bottom the section I didn’t want to open, leaving enough room for Bean to get her head and arms through.  You could make buttons or snaps open down the length if you wanted.  This picture was one of the best to show the placket.

I just realized that anyone that didn’t read my signature look post has no idea why the dress fabric has changed colors, hehe.  When I changed this dress to represent my signature look instead of just the special occasion look, I dyed the fabric, hemmed the sleeves, and added the crochet trimmed neckline.  I’ll post about the crochet details next week as well.

To finish the dress, I just sewed on the buttons and then hemmed the bottom edge.  I used a 1.5 inch or so doubled over hem in case Bean sprouts up too much before the weather is nice enough to wear it.

I hope this is enough information to get you started making your own bishop dress.  I will definitely make another one since the construction is so easy.  If you have any questions feel free to post them in the comments.  I may have skirted (hehe) over a detail or two so let me know.
Linking up to:
I Heart Naptime   PhotobucketWayward Weekend  Raising Oranges 

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Sparkling

    February 20, 2012 at 8:51 am

    i THOUGHT MAYBE IT WAS A mood dress and changed color based on her mood! I like both colors but I think the green might be my favorite. I can't believe you smocked that. I have never smocked anything and haven't even looked to see how you do it but it looks impossible. It's a great dress. Dior Schmior. You should take orders for these.

    I never learned about writing out words for numbers. You must have had a different English teacher!

    Reply
  2. Anonymous

    February 28, 2013 at 11:32 am

    Thank You for this tutorial, I like this Bishop Dress, I will be making some for my grandchildren.

    Reply

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I have two patterns coming out in the next issue o I have two patterns coming out in the next issue of @onethimble and hereโ€™s a first look at one of them!  The Diamondback Cami & Crop view A cami ๐Ÿ’• 
This traditional camisole shape has a shelf lining (perfect for swim!) and a fun twist on the reverse side.  Fold-over elastic for the edges and straps makes this a quick sew with clean finishes and has sizes newborn through 16years. ๐Ÿ˜˜
One Thimble Issue 28 releases for preorders on March 11th so head over to get your preorder in now ๐Ÿ˜

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It was so nice to be able to be outside after napt It was so nice to be able to be outside after naptime in some sunshine and warmer weather. Spring is coming ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•
It was so fun pulling things from my scrap bin ear It was so fun pulling things from my scrap bin earlier this week for the #fabriceggstravaganza hosted by @postalthreads. Lots of memories and fun textures like @shannonfabrics Cuddleยฉ minky and Embrace double gauze. 
I love how fun the fabric eggs were to plan and how quickly they sew together. Now I canโ€™t wait for @yarn_n_paint to get her box of eggs so I can share how they turned out. 
Also Iโ€™m already planning more to make cause letโ€™s face it, when I said that I pulled from โ€œmy scrap bin,โ€ we all know thereโ€™s way more than one scrap bin ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜†
This baby wearing a shirt from back in the day tha This baby wearing a shirt from back in the day that she found in the hand me down bin. Itโ€™s wrinkled but still cute! ๐Ÿ’• Scroll to see her sister wearing it with a bow belt  back in February 2014 ๐Ÿ˜
So excited about these patterns in testing. Sneak So excited about these patterns in testing. Sneak peek of this amazing fold over elastic from @minervadotcom ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
#dbcadiamondback #designsbycallajaire #sneakpeek
We had a fun craft night last week with the @redee We had a fun craft night last week with the @redeemer.lutheran moms group. Shout out to the ladies who braved the glitter vinyl/felt combo ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜† 
The finished product turned out lovely ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
Testing is going well for the new patterns and Iโ€™m especially loving this @wolfandrabbitfabrics plaid right now ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
#sneakpeek #dbcadiamondback #designsbycallajaire #patterntesting
This little cutie begs for โ€œpictchaโ€ any time This little cutie begs for โ€œpictchaโ€ any time I ask the nine year old for fit pics of a design. 
Sneak peek of the #DbCADiamondback ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
#designsbycallajaire
The Diamondback Cami & Crop AND the coordinating D The Diamondback Cami & Crop AND the coordinating Diamondback Leggings are ready for testing!  Testing will begin on Tuesday the 9th and will end on Saturday the 20th.  These are two separate patterns, but will be tested in the same group simultaneously.  You can sign up for whichever (or both) you'd like, but as long as you complete at least one final version you will get both final patterns ๐Ÿ˜˜
Works great together for dancewear or sport and as separates for casualwear.  The Cami & Crop are also able to made as swimwear ๐Ÿ˜, but FYI this pattern doesn't include a swim bottom. (I do have a FREE #classicmaillotswimskirt available in the shop though ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿผโ€โ™€๏ธ) 
Depending on the fabrics, the crop can also be used as an undergarment bralette.
The Diamondback Cami & Crop and view A of the Diamondback Leggings require fold-over elastic.  You can use any knit for both patterns with at least 75% stretch, but the leggings need 4-way stretch.  Sizing nb-16years

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I've always loved making. At an early age I started cross stitching and sewing and I taught myself to knit and crochet during college. When our seven year old daughter Bean was born I was filled with all sorts of inspiration, so now I find ways to manage my crafty time and treasure those moments. Though sewing is what I'm most passionate about these days, there's something about the portability of yarn crafts and embroidery that keeps drawing me back in.

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